Instructive and descriptive catalogue / Howard Lake & Victor Nurseries ; W.H. Eddy, proprietor.

Historic, Archive Document

Do not assume content reflects current
scientific knowledge, policies, or practices.

Planter’s Guide

Latitude 45,/4°North

Established 1887

W. H. EDDY, Prop.

Howard Lake, Minnesota

Representatives Wanted
Write Us for Selling Terms

BRAR'
2 8 1329 i

Instructive and Descriptive

CATALOGUE

Howard Lake & Victor

Nurseries

W. H. EDDY, Proprietor
Howard Lake, - - Minnesota

HOWARD LAKE & VICTOR
NURSERIES

THE PLANTER’S GUIDE

This guide has been made as short and to
the point as possible and at the same time
cover all items which are of most vital
importance to the planter.

Many of the older varieties have been
left out as we are now growing newer in¬
troductions which have more desirable quali¬
ties. These newer varieties have been all
thoroughly tested out before they are offer¬
ed for sale and we feel justified in recom¬
mending them to our customers as varieties
that are of the very best.

It is of the greatest importance that you
select varieties which will be of the greatest
usefulness to you. This we realize is the
foundation of your success and is an adver¬
tisement towards the planting of our plants
and trees.

LANDSCAPE SERVICE

Our landscape service department is in
a position to furnish plans at an economical
figure and give our clients the very highest
quality of service along this line. In case
you are interested in making some improve¬
ments in landscaping, write us for our
terms.

W. H. EDDY,

Proprietor.

INFORMATION

The material included in this guide is
taken from our latest and best experiences
in Horticulture varieties and methods.

We wish to commend Mr. W. H. Aider-
man and his staff for the great help which
they have done by the introduction of new

2

hardy varieties and information which they
have given for the improvement of Horti¬
culture in the Northwest.

Much of the information, included in this
guide, has been taken from our state Hor¬
ticultural Department of the University of
Minnesota. We believe the latest up-to-
date information from this source is what
the planter should use. This experimental
station is the largest and most extensive in
the Northwest and is certainly giving out
important information to the people of this
section of the United States and Canada.

GOOD PACKING

We aim to pack our trees and plants in
such a wa}' that they will be as fresh when
unpacked, as when they were sent out from
the nursery. We believe that it pays us to
pay more freight and express for additional
packing material and have our stock arrive
fresh and in the best of shape for planting.

REASONABLE PRICES

The quality of trees that you get from
the Howard Lake & Victor Nurseries will
make them cheap to you regardless of the
price you pay. We sell nothing but first
class trees and of the highest quality. Our
inferior trees are thrown on the brush pile
as we consider them worthless.

Why waste your time and land by plant¬
ing trees of an inferior value? We grow
nothing but the hardiest varieties, which are
adapted to the severe climatic conditions
of the Northwest.

Why buy southern trees — because they
are cheap? They are worthless to you.

OUR TERMS ARE STRICTLY
CASH

OUR RATES

We furnish six at dozen rates, 50 at 100
rates and 500 at 1,000 rates.

3

CAUTION IN ORDERING

Understand the size of the trees and
plants that you are ordering and order
accordingly.

ORDER EARLY

Place your order early in the year for the
following spring or fall, as we sometimes
run out of certain varieties and it may be
these varieties that you want. The early
orders are always filled first.

GUARANTEE

We exercise the greatest care in having
all our stock true to name, and should any
of it prove otherwise, we will replace the
same free of charge or refund the original
purchase price. In case trees are given the
proper care, when received for planting and
planted correctly, we will replace them free
of charge first season in case they die and
we are notified before September first, ex¬
cept evergreens, strawberry plants and bed¬
ding plants which we replace at one-half
price.

DELAYS

In case stock has been shipped and you
do not receive it in due season advise your
railway agent to have it traced and notify
us at once. We, in turn, will have it traced
from this end.

VARIETIES

The hardiest and most valuable varieties
are included in this guide. In case you
should be interested in some varieties that
are not included in this guide and believe
them to be of value for planting write us or
see one of our salesmen as we are growing
all the hardy varieties for the Northwest
and have on hand many varieties which you
will not find in this booklet.

4

GENERAL INFORMATION

Care of Stock When Received

In case 3^our order is received in bulk
shipment, with many other orders, it is a
good plan to protect the roots of the trees
with a blanket until you get them home and
can heel them in or place them in water.
Trees should at all times be protected from
wind and sun and be kept in a moist condi¬
tion until ready to plant. The stock will be
in the best of shape, when you receive it,
and in case it cannot be planted at once,
heel the bundle in the ground in good, moist
soil. In case the weather or the soil are
not right for planting, heel in the ground
until conditions are favorable for planting.
A cloudy day is best for planting especially
for evergreens. Keep the trees in a good
moist condition until ready to plant and you
will have no trouble in making them grow.

FALL SHIPMENTS

In case you receive your order of trees
in the fall, the first thing to do is to choose a
well drained location and dig a trench large
enough so that the trees can be completely
covered. Remove all of the packing mate¬
rial and cut the bundle open. Place the
larger trees in the bottom of the trench and
the smaller trees on top. Cover the roots
with about a foot of soil and the tops with
four or five inches. Place some straw or
manure over the top to prevent freezing and
thawing. The advantage of receiving trees
in the fall is that they are on hand in the
spring during the busy season and can be
planted to the best advantage of the trees
as well as the planter. Trees will come
through the winter in the best of shape if
the above instructions are followed. Ever¬
greens and strawberry plants should not be
planted in the fall and cannot be carried
over winter in the above manner.

5

FROZEN STOCK

Should airy stock be received in a frozen
condition DO NOT DISTURB order, but
place the bundle or box in a moist cellar
and let trees thaw out gradually. Do not
unpack until frost is entirely out of trees.

PREPARING LAND
Fruit Trees and Windbreaks

Prepare land the same as you would for
a corn crop, plowing in the fall or late sum¬
mer and disk until soil is in a fine, pulverized
condition. A piece of ground that has been
used for a cultivated crop the year previous
is better than a sod that has been plowed
up. Do not plant near large trees or on
low, poorly drained soil. Do not plant in
sod. Cultivate trees the same as you would a
corn crop for the first two or three years.

Small Fruits

Prepare land the same as for fruit trees,
except work it up more thoroughly so the
soil is in a well pulverized state at time
of planting and should be kept cultivated,
restrict the growth of weeds and you will
gee a good crop.

Planting in Sod

When it is necessary to plant in sod, as
is the case when planting in the lawn, re¬
move the sod for a radius of three feet
around where tree is to be planted and spade
the soil up. Keep this area cultivated and
mulched.

Preparing Trees for Planting

Directions for fruit trees and forest trees
are to cut back one-half of last year’s
growth and all branches or limbs which are
not placed right. Leave the central leader
of your tree somewhat longer than the side
branches. Remove any branches that have
been injured. Branches should be evenly

6

distributed about the main leader of the
tree. Cut back the roots to a slanting cut,
leaving a fresh clean cut at the end of every
root. The top should be cut back, so that
it is in proportion to the amount of roots
on the tree or shrub. Large forest trees
should be cut back until there is only the
stub and a few smaller stubs running out
from th'e main trunk. Some shrubs and
hedge plants should be cut back to a few
inches from the ground. Do not prune
evergreens.

Setting of Trees and Plants

Dig the holes large enough so that the
roots have plenty of room. Use the top soil
for around the roots and stamp soil firmly
about the roots. Fill in soil and then stamp
firm and continue until tree is solid and
cannot be pulled out. Plant trees from
three to four inches deeper than they were
planted in the nursery and leave a few
inches of loose soil on top around tree.
Leave the soil slanting towards the tree.

Be sure trees are kept in a moist condi¬
tion while planting, this can be done by
using a stone boat and barrel of water and
removing one tree from the barrel at a time.
In planting shrubs and other plants the same
principles are used. The most vital point
to keep in mind is to press the soil firmly
around the roots.

Manuring

In most of our soils in this section of the
country we would not advise plowing under
manure in the spring or placing it in the
holes where trees are to be planted as it
will burn the roots in many cases and cause
the death of the tree. Apply manure as a
top dressing, which should be done, the
fall after planting. This serves as a winter
protection and at the same time furnishes
nourishment for the tree when it starts
growing the next spring.

7

APPLES

Orchards Properly Handled Give a
Profit

The University of Minnesota in some
data that they collected in regard to the
orchards of Minnesota found that the aver¬
age value per acre of orchard land was
$500.00. The returns from these orchards
ranged from $23.75 per acre, for a poorly
managed orchard, to $506.81, for a very
well handled orchard. The properly located
and well managed orchards are netting large
returns to their owners. That there have
been many failures in the past is true, by
those who fail to realize that they cannot
succeed with the old eastern and southern
varieties and methods. It is true that the
acres planted in apple trees, with the proper
varieties and given the proper management,
have netted to their owners larger porfitg
than any agricultural product. Spray your
trees, keep out the grass, weeds, rabbits
and livestock and you will have success with
your apple orchard.

How to Lay Out an Orchard

The economical method of laying out an
orchard is the one that we are recommend¬
ing to you. Its advantages are that all cul¬
tivating, plowing, spraying, etc., can be car¬
ried on with a team as the rows are given
plenty of room and the space between the
rows can be utilized by growing other crops
as small fruits, etc.

The spacing is far enough between the
rows so that another row can be started
when the older trees are through bearing
and by the iime the time the old trees are
to be removed you have another orchard
bearing fruit. We must consider our
orchard as a crop and plant varieties which
will give us early large returns and when
the trees show decay be satisfied to plant
again.

8

WEST

9

EAST

Location of Orchard

The success of an orchard is greatly due
to location. Select a north or northeast
slope in preference to a south slope. The
rows should run north and south as the
trees protect one another from sun-scald by
shading the tree to the north.

Select a soil that has good drainage, never
plant an apple tree in a pocket, where water
will stand after heavy rains, or in the early
spring. Air drainage is very important, and
is as essential to the apple tree as good soil
drainage.

Do not plant in a grove or where the
trees will be surrounded by larger trees.
An abundance of free circulation of air
and sunshine are very necessary for the
proper ripening of the fruit. A clay bottom
soil is the best, although there are many
profitable orchards on lighter sandy soils.

Separate Varieties

The apple orchard should consist of apple
trees only and in case of growing on a com¬
mercial basis restrict the number of varieties
to as few as possible as 3^ou will have less
trouble in marketing your fruit if the
orchard consists of but one or two varieties.
The home orchard should consist of a num¬
ber of varieties in order to have on hand
at all seasons of the year some variety of
apples. Do not mix your plum orchard
with the apple orchard.

How and When to Prune

When pruning always keep in mind 3Tour
central axis and keep the limbs evenly dis¬
tributed about it. The lower limbs should
be two and a half feet from the ground, Cut
out all branches that cross one another and
open up the head of the tree to get air circu¬
lation and to give a high color to the fruit.

10

Leave plenty of branches on the south side
of the trees to protect the trunk from sun-
scald. Make your cuts clean and close to
the trunk. Never leave a stub. Never do
heavy pruning when the foliage is on the
tiee. The best time to prune is when the
tree is in a dormant condition. Wounds over
one-half an inch in diameter should be cov¬
ered with white lead paint.

SERIOUS DISEASES OF THE
APPLE
Blight

This bacterial disease is one of the most
serious throughout the Northwest and can
be controlled by removing the diseased
parts as soon as they are noticed on the
tree. The symptoms of the disease are the
wilting of the succulent new growth and
finally the browning of the ends of the
branches. Cankers are formed where the
disease carries over winter. Control — by
cutting off the diseased branches and disin¬
fecting the tool used in carbolic acid after
each cut. Be careful not to let the diseased
branch touch any of the healthy growth.
Burn these branches and keep the infected
parts cut out as soon as they appear.

Sunscald

A mechanical injury caused by the sun
striking the trunk of the tree and starting
the sap in the early spring, which freezes
and bursts the cells in the bark Protection
of the trunk of the tree by using tree pro¬
tectors will prevent sunscald in young trees.
Cider trees should be protected on the
south side by leaving plenty of branches.
Young trees should be slanted to the south¬
west, when planted, as the head of the tree
will then shade the trunk and protect it
from the warm sun in early spring.

11

Crooked Trees

Some of the best varieties of orchard
trees are the most crooked and may seem to
some people the worst looking trees. It is
unfortunate that there is a prejudice to
crooked trees as they usually make the best
orchard trees. These varieties are the
spreading growers and are not so liable to
break down when loaded with fruit. Some
nurseries will not grow these varieties of
trees, as it costs more to raise them and
the customer is almost sure to find fault
with them. Varieties which form crooked
nursery trees are Early Strawberry and
Minnesota Crab, Hibernal, Patten’s Green¬
ing, Eongfield, Malinda and Charlamoff.
if you want straight trees don’t order these
varieties, but in this list you have some of
the best varieties and we would advise
planting them. If you get the variety you
want don’t be too particular about the
straightness of the tree as this is a desirable
characteristic, especially when you have
your best varieties among this class.

SPRAY PROGRAM FOR
MINNESOTA

Recommended by the Minnesota Horti¬
cultural Society:

Arsenic of lead, powered, \y2 pounds;
lime sulphur, commercial liquid, 5 quarts;
water, 50 gallons.

Cover every tree thoroughly and use a
high pressure, 200 pounds or more is better
than a low pressure. Be sure to spray at
the right time.

Apples

First spray — When first flower buds
show pink.

Pest controlled — Early stages of leaf eat¬
ing caterpillars, curculio and scab.

12

Second spray— As soon as petals drop
from flowers and before calyx-cup closes.

Pests controlled — Coddling moth, cater¬
pillars and those listed under first spray.

Third spray — Last week of June or first
week of July.

Pests controlled — Scab, apple maggot
(railroad worm) and leaf eating insects.

Fourth spray — About July 20th.

Pests controlled — Scab, apple maggot,
plum curculio and leaf eating insects.

Plums

First spray — Just before blossoms open.

Pests controlled — Curculios, plum pocket,
blossom blight, twig blight.

Second spray — Just after petals fall.

Pests controlled — Curculios and brown
rot.

Third spray — When plums are the size of
small peas.

Pests controlled — Curculios and brown
rot.

Fourth spray — When fruit first starts to
color.

Pests controlled — Curculios and brown
rot.

Special for Plant Lice

Nicotine sulphate, 40 per cent, pint;
soap, 2/z pound; water, 50 gallons.

The first lice usually appear just as the
buds are bursting. If very numerous, when
applying regular sprays, nicotine sulphate
may be added to the regular spray. It is
more effective when used alone.

Currants and Gooseberries

Spray just before buds open, useing lime
sulphur- — one part to nine parts of water.
This is for plant lice and is to be used only
before leaves come out as it is a strong
spray. Controls plant lice.

13

Currant Worm

Spray — Use arsenate of lead at rate of
1*4 pounds to 50 gallons water and 4-5-50
Bordeaux mixture as soon as the caterpillars
are seen. Use Hellebore if spraying is need¬
ed when fruit is nearly mature. This may
be dusted on leaves early in the morning.

Currant Borer

Prune out and burn infected canes before
June first. Borers usually attack the canes
that are two or more years old. Most of
the fruit is borne on these canes. Do not
prune out all old canes each season.

HOW TO SELECT VARIETIES

For the home orchard plant a good vari¬
ety, selecting a few early cooking and eat¬
ing apples, a few early and late crabs and
a few fall apples. Make most of your selec¬
tions of winter apples such as the Wealthy,
Malinda, Red Wing, N. W. Greening and
Anisim. In this way you should have
apples the year around raised from your
own orchard. We have tried out the varie¬
ties that we are recommending to you and
will only enter a few7 of the very best varie¬
ties in this guide. Varieties which are the
best for the far north are marked wdth a *.

APPLE VARIETIES

Anisim*

Hardy, free from blight, thrifty, upright
grower; starts producing early and will pro¬
duce an annual crop under favorable con¬
dition. Fruit of medium size and under,
of a bright red color, which makes the tree
very attractive when loaded with fruit.
Quality good. A valuable fruit for the home-
orchard. Season, September to January.

14

Charlamoff*

Vary hardy, thrifty, spreading grower;
early and regular bearer. Fruit similar to
the Duchess but hangs to tree better. With¬
out a doubt the best, early eating apple;
wonderful quality. We recommend this
variety as the best in its class and are enter¬
ing it as such. Season, September.

Duchess*

Very hardy, free from blight, upright
grower; very productive. Fruit, medium
size, striped and acid. An early cooking
apple that is well known. Fruit can be
used when half grown. Season, September.

Hibernal*

Extremely hardy, thrifty, spreading
grower; early bearer, in fact we have had
trees four years from transplanting bear a
bushel of apples. The most valuable tree
we have for top working other varieties on,
as it has strong crotches that will never
break down. An annual bearer of large,
irregular fruit with a handsome striping.
Fruit very good for cooking, is very string¬
ent and acid. Season, October to January.

Haralson*

Extremely hardy, upright to slightly
spreading, free from blight; early, heavy
bearer. Fruit of a dark red color, medium
to large, fine flavor. Considered the best
apple for Minnesota by the University of
Minnesota Fruit Breeding Farm, where the
apple was originated. This is without a
doubt one of the coming varieties for the
Northwest. Season, October to April or
May.

Malinda*

Hardy, free from blight, thrifty, spread¬
ing grower; does not come into bearing
until late, but bears heavily after it starts.

15

Fruit medium in size and of a 3^ellow color,
beautifully striped. Mild acid flavor and is
especially good early in the spring for eat¬
ing. By proper pruning this tree can be
classed as one of our best shaped, as well
as most productive of our winter varieties.
Season, October to April.

Northwest Greening

A moderately, hardy variety, spreading,
thrifty grower; fruit large green with blush,
sub-acid, good quality, fine for eating in
early spring. Season, November to April.

Patten’s Greeing*

Extremely hardy, free from blight, even
if planted among blighting varieties, a
vigorous, spreading grower, early and
abundant bearer. Fruit large, greenish yel¬
low, a very good eating and cooking apple.
Season, September to January.

Red Wing*

Extremely hardy, free from blight, up¬
right growing in nursery but makes a
spreading orchard tree, thrifty grower with
large, dark green foliage. This tree has
withstood the severe winters of Manitoba
and bore good crops. Fruit large beauti¬
fully striped with a good red color. A
proven winter apple for the Northwest
of very good quality. Season, October to
April.

Wealthy

Moderately hardy, blights somewhat,
sunscalds quite readily, upright, thrifty
grower, early and abundant producer. Fruit
medium to large, of a very bright red color,
quality excellent. The best commercial ap-
pE for Minnesota and will give wonderful
results if top worked on Hibernal stock. An
excellent desert apple. Season, October to
January.

16

CRABS

Sour— Suitable for Cooking
Transcendent*

Very hardy, early bearer, thrifty, spread¬
ing grower, blights some. An immense
hearer and will not blight as readily in the
northern part of the state, where it is the
most valuable crab apple. Season, Sep¬
tember.

Florence*

Very hardy, very early bearer, thrifty
spreading grower, free from blight and
takes the place of the Transcendent in the
sections where the Transcendent blights
badly. Fruit colored with splashes of bright
reu that make it conspicious for a long dis¬
tance when hanging on the tree. Profit¬
able for the commercial orchard and valu¬
able for the home orchard. Season, Sep¬
tember and October.

Yellow Siberian*

The very hardiest of our crabs, upright,
thrifty grower, free from blight, a profuse
annual bearer, small yellow fruit, that is
especially suitable for pickles. Season,
September.

Sweet — Suitable for Desert
Whitney*

Hardy, free from blight, very upright
and thrifty grower that is doing well every¬
where. Moderate producer. Fruit large
for a crab, striped with red. Without a
doubt the most popular apple in season, as
it is sweet and has a very attractive flavor.
The sauce from this apple is unexcelled
and has a pear flavor. Season, September.

Early Strawberry*

V ery hardy and a thrifty, spreading grow¬
er blights somewhat, early and heavy pro-

17

clucer. Highly colored fruit of medium size,
tender and delicious. Will not stand long
shipments. A fine eating apple and very
desirable for sweet pickles. Season, latter
part of August to first part of September.

PLUMS

There is no fruit likely to give such gen¬
uine satisfaction as our improved tame
plums. The plum is a native throughout the
Northwest and literally speaking is “as
hardy as an oak.” Trees begin to bear very
soon after planting and produce large crops
of fruit of the highest excellency that can
be used either for desert or canning. No
farm or village home, even in North Dakota
and Montana, need be without this luscious
fruit, which can be raised more easily in our
climate than oranges in Florida. This fruit
will rival the product of any garden on earth
for its excellence.

How to Lay Out a Plum Orchard

The plum does best on a moist, rich soil
that is well drained. Air drainage is very
important in preventing the most serious
disease of the plum, which is brown rot.
This is especially true of the Hanson
Hybrids and a location should be selected
where there is plenty of air circulation. The
trees should be planted in a group or clump
in order to allow the free distribution of
pollen from one flower to another, therefore,
making all trees bear fruit more uniformly.
To form a group of plum trees mark out a
plot of ground 36 feet square, according to
the following diagram. Select at least four
varieties. A good selection for this group
would be: One Loring Prize, two Under¬
wood, two Monitor, two Waneta, two Sapa,
two Opata, two Hanska.

IS

36 ft.

This makes 13 trees to complete the
group which is the right size for a home
orchard. By this plan of setting, the pollen
will be conveyed from tree to tree by the
air currents and insects and a good set of
fruit is insured. The above diagram is spaced
right for the smaller growing varieties as
the Sapa and Opata and should be larger,
with spacing of 15 feet between the trees
for the larger growing trees, as the New
Minnesota plums the Boring Prize, etc. Our
trees are all propagated on native plum
stocks, which is a matter of vital import¬
ance, to insure a long-lived tree. Most of
the southern and eastern nurseries are using
peach and marianna roots to propagate their
plums on, which greatly depreciates the
reputation of this grand northern fruit.

PROF. HANSON’S NEW PLUMS
Plum Cherries

We have classified the following varieties
as plum cherries due to their cherry char¬
acteristics. These trees will bear a crop
thi* second year after planting and will con¬
tinue bearing year after year an enormous

19

crop. The trees are of a dwarfish growing
habit and can be planted twelve feet apart.
They grow rank and spreading. Due to
this characteristic they should be kept cut
back, at least the succulent long whips
which will break off when loaded with fruit.

Opata*

A cross between the sand cherry and
burbank, tree erect and spreading. Very
hardy in wood and bud. Fruit medium
size, flesh green with a purple skin that is
sweet and does not give the tart taste
when canned. Quality very good. Ripens
the later part of July. A valuable fruit that
should be found in every orchard.

Sapa*

A cross between the sand cherry and the
Japanese plum, Sultan. Style of tree very
much similar to the Opata. A heavy bearer
of excellent quality. Fruit of medium size.
Flesh dark purple with a bluish skin. Ex¬
cellent for desert or canning, sweet skin.
Ripens the later part of July. This variety
should be found in every home and com¬
mercial orchard.

OTHER VARIETIES BY
HANSON

Hanska*

A cross between the native plum and
Prunus Simoni the large, firm-fleshed
apricot plum of China. Tree is very hardy
and a strong, upright grower. An early
and heavy bearer. Fruit a very bright red
and with a delicious apricot flavor. Flesh
firm, will stand shipping any distance. Sea¬
son, August.

20

Waneta*

This is without a doubt Prof. Hanson’s
best plum. It combines extreme hardi¬
ness with immense size, delicious flavor,
beautiful red color, small pit and early
bearing. Fruit the size and very much the
shape of a hen’s egg. Tree is erect, thirfty
grower, of good size, when mature. This
variety has been bearing fruit for a number
of years throughout North Dakota and
Northern Minnesota. Season, early August.
VV e have had many reports from our cus¬
tomers on this plum as the largest and best
they have ever grown.

THE NEW MINNESOTA PLUMS

The University of Minnesota Fruit
Breeding Farm has certainly done some
wonderful work in the development of new
plum varieties for the Northwest. These
plums are taking the places of many of the
older standard varieties and show^ a marked
improvement over them .For the special
benefit of our customers we are going to
give a detailed description of the varieties
which have proven to be the best among
this list.

Tonka No. 21*

Burbank and Wolf cross, tree of medium
size and vigor, upright, spreading growth,
hardy; fruit roundish, large dark red; flesh
firm, juicy, sweet; quality, good; stone very
small, free or nearly free from flesh at time
of maturity, early to mid-season in ripen¬
ing. Recommended for home and market.
Very productive and will stand shipping.

Red Wing No. 12

Burbank and Wolf cross, quite hardy,
tree upright, spreading and quite vigorous;
fruit very large, firm, yellow, overlaid with

21

bright red; flesh, moderately juicy, sweet,
quality, very good. Stone medium to large,
entirely free. Ripens mid-season. An ex¬
cellent variety for home use and an at¬
tractive market plum.

Monitor No. 70*

Triflora and American cross, tree medium
in size hut vigorous grower, produces a
compact roundish , well-shaped head, hardv
and productive; fruit is large, roundish, well
colored, with dark dull red; flesh, firm,
moderately juicy, sweet; ^iality, excellent;
stone, medium in size, cling; ripens late
mid-season. Very promising as a market
plum as well as for the home orchard. We
believe this to be the best of the new
varieties by a slight margin.

Underwood No. 91*

Tree of large size and extremly vigorous,
of spreading growth, forming a round head,
very hardy and productive; fruit, larp-e,
roundish, oval, attractive red color; flesh,
juicy, firm, hangs well to tree. Ripens very
early and continuous over a long season.
Stone, small, cling. Quality, excellent.
Valuable for home and market.

STANDARD VARIETIES OF
PLUMS

This list consists of a number of varie¬
ties that are both old and new, which we
are growing in our nurseries and believe
have a value to the planters of the North¬
west.

Loring Prize

This is the plum orginated by J. P. Vikla
of Rice County, Minnesota, which received
the prize of $100.00 as the largest and best
plum for the Northwest, because it is a good

commercial fruit, is good for canning, deli¬
cious to eat, has a small pit, is an attractive
bright red color, and is bound to be in
great demand at a good price when sold
on the market. This plum will compete
with any varieties shipped in from Cali¬
fornia and there is money in growing it.
Trees that were grown in our nurseries
have proven hardy and productive as far
north as Todd County, Minnesota, where
they have produced a crop the second -rear
after planting and have borne a crop every
year since the}^ started bearing.

Terry*

The largest and best of the older stand¬
ard varieties. Tree very hardy, upright
grower, productive. Fruit large and of
good quality, red; flesh, firm, considerable
acidity, cling stone. Trees of this variety
grown in our nurseries have proven hardy
and productive under the severe climatic
conditions found in eastern Montana and
North Dakota.

CHERRIES

Cherries require an elevated, well drained
soil with gentle southern slope. Lay out
the orchard in rows twenty-five feet apart
and set the trees twelve feet apart in the
row. Cherries are coming to the front in
the north and we now have a few varieties
that have proven hardy and productive in
Northern Minnesota and North Dakota.
The proper way to grow cherries in a
severe climate is to train them as bushes
rather than trees. In this way the hardi¬
ness is increased and by renewing the older
limbs with the younger sprouts the life of
the tree can be greatly lengthened. Set the
trees at least a foot deeper than they were
growing in the nursery and allow to grow
in a bush form. The following varieties

have proven successful" with us and some of
them have proven successful in more severe
climates.

Zumbrp*

Originated at the Minnesota Fruit Breed¬
ing Farm. Very hardy tree, dwarf grow¬
ing and spreading, vigorous and extremely
productive. Fruit large for a cherry reaches
one inch in diameter, color nearly black
when ripe; flesh, greenish, firm; stone,
small and free; quality, excellent, some¬
what resembling its sweet cherry parent.
Very fine for sauce and preserves as well as
eating when fresh from tree. Season ex¬
tends through the latter part of August.
Fruit hangs well to tree. This is a valuable
cherry for home or market use and is con¬
sidered the most valuable production of the
Fruit Breeding Farm towards better fruits
fcr Minnesota.

Howard Lake Cherry*

Originated at the Howard Lake Nur¬
series, where it was noticed in a row of
Rocky Mountain Cherry seedlings. Tree is
of a dwarf form, spreading, and a very
thrifty grower; very hardy; fruit red, re¬
sembling the compass. Very late in ripen¬
ing. Season, middle of September.

Compass*

Originated by H. Knudson of Springfield,
Minnesota. Tree is perfectly hardy and
adapted to the cold prairie country of North
Dakota and Canada. It seems to do best
out here, where it is free from disease and
produces a heavy crop every year, starting
the second year after planting. Fruit small,
bright red and is pleasant for canning or
eating out of the hand. This variety will
produce under severe conditions where
many other varieties have failed.

24

Early Richmond

The most popular and productive, hardy
through the central states. Fruit, dark red,
medium to large; an excellent pie cherry.
Will thrive and produce in sheltered loca¬
tions.

Improved Rocky Mountain Cherry*

Extremely hardy in the northern part of
Minnesota and Manitoba, where it is found
desirable to plant. It naturally grows in
a bush form. Fruit black when ripe and
has a tarty taste. Especially fine for jell.
May be used as an ornamental shrub.
Adapted to a dry climate and poor soil,
where it will thrive and produce an abund¬
ance of fruit.

CURRANTS

A good, well known fruit that can be
grown anywhere and on any soil that will
produce a grain crop. They do best on a
rich soil with plenty of mulching and good
cultivation. Set in single rows, running
north and south. Can be grown between
the rows of apple or plum trees in the
orchard with good results. Their greatest
and only serious enemy is the currant worm
which can be controlled by using the regu¬
lar spray as given under the spray program
in this guide on page 14.

Perfection*

A cross between Fay’s Prolific and White
Grape. A late introduction which combines
the good qualities of both its parents. Fruit
bright red and large. In quality it is said
to be superior to anything on the market
and is of a rich mild sub-acid flavor.

Red Cross*

One of the latest introductions. A strong
growing variety with long heavy compact
bunches. Berry very large, bright red, of

25

mild and pleasing quality and fine flavor.
We consider this as the best currant for
the Northwest as it has proven this to us;
where we are growing all the other varieties
the RED CROSS has always been out¬
standing in size and production. Berry will
average one-half inch in diameter where
grown on a good soil. We have had bunches
run from six to eight inches in length.

Red Dutch*

The old standard red that is well known
and is agreed to be about the best variety
o l the old list. A red berry of good quality.

White Grape*

Bush vigorous, somewhat spreading, pro¬
ductive; clusters, long; berries, large, of a
very attractive cream color, mild flavor and
good quality. Especially fine for table use.

GOOSEBERRIES

The gooseberry, like the currant, is a
favorite in the northern fruit garden and
can be grown with very little attention.
They contain a sprightly sub-acid flavor
that is not lost in preserving, as is the case
with many other fruits. The interest and
demand for this fruit is constantly grow¬
ing. Protect from worms exactly the same
as currants.

Carrie*

Originated in Minnesota by the late
Wyman Elliot. Pale red, good size, excel¬
lent quality and very productive. Very
thrifty and healthy grower, very few thorns.

Downing

A popular variety with the market gar¬
dener, light green, sweet and fine quality.
Berries large and easy to pick. Bush pro¬
ductive.

26

Houghton*

Very hardy, one of the most reliable varie¬
ties, heavy bearer, excellent quality, but
rather small. Berries pale red when fully
ripe.

GRAPES

This is a fruit that can be grown on any
good land, as well here as in some of the
states south, with only the additional ex¬
pense of covering in winter. With the new
introduction of the Beta, Alpha and Hun¬
garian this trouble is done away with, as
these varieties will withstand the severe
winters without covering.

Select a sunny location, a south slope be¬
ing best, and run the rows north and south
planting vines eight feet apart between rows
and eight feet apart in the row. Cultivate
well during the summer and cut back in fall
leaving one main shoot or three or four
shoots, depending on the system that you
are going to use in training the vines. For
the varieties that are to be covered leave
one shoot and cut it down to within about
three buds of the ground and cover with
earth. The second year leave a shoot about
four feet in length that is trained along the
bottom wire of your three wire fence. In
the fall of the third season leave three shoots
from the main stock and cut these back to
two buds. In the fall of the fourth year you

27

will leave two buds from each of the shoots
left the fall before and three new shoots
cut back to two buds along the horizontal
main stock which has been left. Continue
this practice leaving not over thirty buds
formed that season on the whole vine. For
the hardy varieties the fan system is about
the best, where you leave about four main
stocks from the base of the plant and leave
your buds wThich produce the fruit on these
shoots. These can be left up on the trellis
all winter. Remember, that the fruit is
formed on the new growth formed the same
season the fruit is picked.

Out of the numerous varieties that we are
growing in our nurseries we selected the
following as the most valuable to the north¬
ern planter:

Beta*

A hybrid of the wild grape, probably
crossed with the Janesville. This grape is
as hardy as the wild vine found growing,
as a native throughout Minnesota. Fruit
is of good size, black color and ripens early
before the frost cuts the leaves. This fruit
is dependable and will give you a crop every
year, increasing production as the vines get
older. We have picked grapes from vines
the first year they were set and have re¬
ceived as high as a bushel of grapes from
vines four years from transplanting. Fine
for wine and jelly as well as eating, when
fully ripe.

Alpha*

A native vine was found growing wild in
a woods belonging to the St. John’s Uni¬
versity at Collegeville, Minnesota. This
vine was removed to the vineyard with many
others and later selected as having the quali¬
ties desired. John B. Katzner of the St.
John’s University started propagating this
grape in 1907. The vine had withstood 18
winters without covering at this location

28

and is a healthy, thrifty, growing vine, free
from mildew, bearing bunches of grapes of
large size and good quality. Has proven
hardy up near the Canadian border in Min¬
nesota and produces very heavily. Fruit
dark blue and especially suitable for wine
and can be used for table use, when well
ripened.

Hungarian*

A hardy grape that is larger than the
Beta and slightly better suited for table
use. Thrifty grower and will ripen any¬
where in Minnesota. We think this grape
is especially valuable for the home vine¬
yard and strongly advise planting some of
them. Not quite as hardy as the Beta.

Concord

The most popular and widely grown
grape in America. Bunches large, compact;
berries, large and excellent quality; skin,
tender. Requires covering in Minnesota.

Moore’s Early

A very good, early grape that is quite
hardy and free from disease. Fruit verv
large and black of rich flavor and excellent
quality. Should be covered in Minnesota.

Brighton

A red grape of fine flavor that ripens
fairly early and can be kept in the cellar
foi a good length of time. Requires winter
protection.

Niagara

A magnificent white grape, rank grower
and a prolific bearer of beautiful bunches of
. very large grapes.. Berries have a tough
skin and good quality. . Ripens with the
Concord. ; . .

RASPBERRIES

This is a native fruit of Minnesota and
Wisconsin, where it can be grown under

29

cultivation with marvelous results. ’ Prepare
the soil thoroughly and add plenty of fer¬
tilizer, as the raspberry plant will stand
plenty of fertility and gives the best results
on a rich soil. The method of laying out,
most commonly used, is to set plants in rows
six feet apart and three feet apart in the row.
The space between the rows is kept well
cultivated and plants are allowed to sucker
up and form a hedge row about two feet
wide. The canes which have fruited should
be cut out as soon as the year’s crop has been
removed and the young suckers thinned out
so that they stand about a foot apart in the
hedge row. Tip back the young canes at
this time to induce them to form laterals,
which produce the fruit the following year.
Great care should be used in planting or
you will have poor success. There is a bud
at the ton of the root from which the plant
starts growing. First, be careful not to in¬
jure this bud, which may be noticeable and
may not; depending on how far the plant is
advanced. Do not plant too deep or too
shallow, but plant so that this bud, which
is near where the first roots start on the
stock, is not covered with over one inch
of soil and at the same time is covered with
some soil. If these directions are carefully
followed you will have success in growing
raspberries.

Latham (Minn. No. 4)*

Originated at the Minnesota Fruit Breed¬
ing Farm. This variety seems to have all
the necessary requirements for a red rasp¬
berry. Does not require winter protection.
Plants vigorous, canes, tall, nearly thorn¬
less, reddish in color, upright; berries, rich
red in color, large, firm, holds up well under
shipping and ripens evenly over a long sea¬
son. Matures about one week later, than
the King. A valuable comriiercial variety
because of its hardiness, productivity, ‘ and
quality. Suckers freely.

30

King*

Many of the leading fruit growers con-
sider this one of the best of the early red
raspberries. Berries large and attractive,
bright red in color and good flavor. Ripens
with the earliest and is firm enough to ship
well. Canes healthy, productive and hardy.
Suckers freely .

St. Regis

This comes the nearest to being an ever-
bearing raspberry and in favorable seasons
will produce fruit continuously through¬
out the summer. Berry is red, of good size,
sweet, and fine flavor. Suckers freely.

Ohta*

Originated by Professor N. E. Hanson
of Brookings, South Dakota. Will stand 40
degrees below zero out on the open prairie
without winter protection. Fruit of medium
size and very good quality. Suckers freely.

Columbian

A very large, dark red or purple variety.
Canes are heavy and grow very rank. Does
not require winter covering in central part
of Minnesota. Fruit is of good quality and
very fine for canning. Resembles the black
varieties in that it does not sucker. Pro¬
duces heavy where many other varieties fail.
Especially recommended for the home fruit
garden.

Older

The /hardiest of the black cap raspberries
and will survive the winters without cover¬
ing in central Minnesota. This is the most
reliable black raspberry for the northern
planter and produces heavy crops of a good
quality berry that is especially fine for table
use and canning. Does not spread by
suckering.

31

BLACKBERRIES

The blackberry is a native fruit of the
northern states and should be found in
every home fruit graden. Set plants three
feet apart in the row and rows eight feet
apart. Cultivate and prune the same as
the raspberry. Does best on a sandy soil
and should have winter protection. The
best covering is soil laid over the canes
which are bent over by spading down on
one side of the plant.

Ancient Briton

The hardiest of the blackberries will sur¬
vive the winters without covering in most
places in Minnesota. A reliable market
variety of medium size and best quality.
This is the only variety we are entering
as we believe it to be the hardiest and best
for the planters of the Northwest.

DEWBERRIES

The dewberry is a dwarf trailing form of
the blackberry. It is easily covered for
winter protection because of its growing
habit. The flavor of this fruit is something
different and makes a sauce that cannot be
surpassed in richness and quality.

Lucretia

The hardiest and most widely planted
variety. A strong grower and exceedinglv
productive. Fruit large, luscious and sweet,
glossy black; ripens middle of July in most
localities. Set in rows six feet apart and
three feet in the row.

STRAWBERRIES

A native fruit of the Northwest and the
first to ripen. Plant in the early spring and
la}' out the bed in rows four feet apart and
plants from one to two feet in the row.
When plants are received, open the package

32

and place in a pail that contains a thick
mixture of soil and water. Take one plant
out at a time and .set with the crown of the
plant even with the surface of the soil. It
is very important to pack the soil around
the plants firmly to exclude the air and give
the fine fiberuous roots a chance to come in
contact with the soil. Cultivate and hoe the
first summer. Keep the young plants in a
well matted row. Pick off the blossoms
the first year on the June bearing varieties
and with the everbearing keep picked off
until the middle of August. Cover the bed
with a few inches of clean straw after the
ground has frozen. In the spring rake off
the straw and leave between the rows. This
will keep the fruit clean and at the same
time aid the pickers.

There are two groups of strawberries, the
perfect and imperfect. It is necessary to
plant some perfect variety with the imper¬
fect to make them bear fruit. We are not
including any imperfect varieties in the fol¬
lowing list as we fail to see the advantage
of planting them, when we have so many
good, perfect varieties.

Senator Dunlop*

This is an old standard June bearing
variety, that has made a wonderful record.
Fruit large, roundish, rich dark red color,
firm and of good quality. A favorite with
the commercial growers as well as the
home fruit garden as it will stand shipping
and is excellent for canning. Perfect flowers.

Minnehaha*

A June bearing variety originated at the
University of Minnesota Fruit Breeding
Farm. This plant is readily picked out from
all other varieties by the strong, heavy,
thrifty growth of its stems and leaves.
Fruit is large, firm, medium red in color
and of good quality. A very productive

33

variety that is receiving great favor among I
commercial growers. Perfect flowers.

Progressive*

Everbearing variety, that has withstood
the severe tests of many years and is still
holding its own as one of the best. Plants
very productive and thrifty growers, adapt¬
ing themselves to severe conditions and
producing a crop all summer long. Fruit
of good quality and a rich red color. We
have picked strawberries of this variety
here in our nurseries as late as the 7th of
November. Plant some of these and you
will have fresh fruit all summer. Flowers
perfect.

Duluth (No. 1017)

Everbearing variety, originated at the
Minnesota Fruit Breeding Farm. Foliage
heaw, leaves, medium size, dark green, cov¬
ering and partially protecting the blossoms.
Fruit medium size, conic, dark red, with
seeds slightly raised and red when fully ripe.
Flesh red, moderately juicy, fairly firm,
slightly sul3-acid. Good quality; spring crop
late. Produces a heavy crop both spring
and fall. Especially recommended when
the hill system is used . Perfect flowers.

VEGETABLES

Asparagus*

(Barr’s Mammoth)

This is the first vegetable that can be
used for table use in the spring. Plant in
beds one by twTo feet apart. Use plenty
of well rotted manure and work it into
the soil. Cover the bed with manure or well
rotted straw to secure long white shoots.
There is nothing easier to grow, and every
farmer should have a supply of it in his
garden.

34

PLANTING PLAN FOR IMPROVE¬
MENT OF HOME GROUNDS
HOWARD LAKE & VICTOR
NURSERIES

Paul Eddy, Landscape Architect
PLANTING KEY

First number in each group on plan indi¬
cates variety of plant; second number de¬
notes quantity of that variety in that group;
single number indicates individual plants.

1. Colorado Blue Spruce.

2 American White Elm.

3. Mountain Ash.

4. Basswood.

5. White Ash.

6 Caragana.

7. Coral Berry.

8. Ash Leaf Spirea.

9. Snowberry.

10. Morrow’s Honeysuckle.

11. High Bush Cranberry.

12. Lemoines’ Syringea.

13. Bridal Wreath.

14. Lilac.

15. Cotoneaster.

16. Syringea.

17. Hydrangea P. G.

18. Hills of Snow.

19. Tartarian Honeysuckle.

20. C. L. Elder.

21. Golden Elder.

22. Japanese Barberry.

23. Purple Leaf Plum.

24. Spirea Antony Watered.

25. Bugosa Roses.

26. *' Golden • Syringea. . .

27. B. T. Dogwood.

28. Spirea Bumalda.

29. Snowball.

30 Spirea Thumbergii.

(Plan on Pa^fes 36 and 37)

35

PLANTING PLAN FOR IMPROVEMENT OF HOME AND GROUNDS

Pie Plant*

A well known, old garden favorite that
supplies the first sauce of the season. Plant
three by six feet in a rich soil.

Horse Radish*

A wTell known, popular plant that should
be planted in the spring. Roots can be kept
in the cellar and used when desired
throughout the winter. Plant rows three
feet apart and six inches in the row.

SHELTER BELTS

Uses of a Windbreak

1. To protect the fruit garden and or¬
chard from the cold winds of winter and the
hot dry winds of summer. The feeding
roots, which are near the surface of the
ground, must be protected from variable
changes to give the plant or tree a good,
early start in the spring.

2. To protect the live stpck, by shutting
oif the cold wind and avoiding drafts, dairy
cows will give more milk. Many diseases
are avoided, such as distemper of horses and
sheep. Hens will lay more eggs if given
a protected place to exercise. Less feed is
required to winter the stock.

3. To protect the buildings — less fuel be¬
ing required to keep the house warm. Build¬
ings will last longer if given protection.

4. Protection to the crops. Causes snow
to cover the fields in winter and protects
the crops from the hot drying winds in
the summer.

Planting and Care of a Windbreak

Cultivate until the 1st of August. Plant
more than one variety as drought, insects
or diseases may destroy the planting if only
one variety is used.

Dec/c/uous

39

ca.ii be used and selected as to adaptability to the soil and climate.

EVERGREENS

This popular tree is the most useful of
any for protection in winter as a windbreak
and for ornamental plantings. They are a
trifle more expensive than the decidious
trees and require more care in transplanting.
When the right kinds are planted and given
the proper care, they are the most useful
trees we have in our northern climate. We
feel, that by growing and selling evergreens
for windbreaks and ornamental purposes,
we are giving the people of this section of
the country a great service. There is abso¬
lutely no excuse for leaving our homes
without the winter cheer of their warmth
and beauty. In planting set in rows eight
feet apart and eight feet in the row, alter¬
nating the plants in the row. The great
secret in handling evergreens is to keep
the roots moist at all times from the time
they are dug until planted. Pack the soil
firm about the roots to prevent trees from
swaying in the wind.

Observe the following rules and you will
have success in setting evergreens.

1. Do not expose roots to the air.

2. Prepare a large pail or tub full of
mud about the thickness of heavy paint.
Place the trees with their roots in the mud.

3. After the holes are prepared take the
tub, with trees on a stone boat, and remove
one tree at a time from tub and plant at
once.

4. Use fine moist soil next to the roots
and press it firmly about the roots. Con¬
tinue tramping soil until tree is solid and
cannot be pulled out then leave some loose
soil on top. Tree should be set a little
deeper than they stood in the nursery.

5. Cultivate the ground all summer and
keep free of weeds and grass.

6. Do not use water or manure.

7. Keep out all stock except chickens.

40

8. It takes but a couple of minutes to
kill an evergreen if the roots are exposed
to the sun or air.

Arbor Vitae American* (Thuya
Occidentalis)

One of our most beautiful evergreens use¬
ful for screens, hedges or windbreaks.
Especially adapted to moist and sheltered
locations. Can be used for a low hedge or
as specimen trees as it will stand shearing.
20 to 30 feet.

Arbor Vitae Pyramidal (T. Pyra-
midalis)

A densely branched columnar form.
Does not require trimming. A very valu¬
able variety for ornamental plantings, where
a columnar effect is desired. 20 to 30 feet.

Arbor Vitae Compacta (T. Compacta)

Dwarf and compact in its growth. Good
for outside border in evergreen groups. One
of the most pleasing types of tree that
everybody likes. From 4 to 6 feet.

Black Hill Spruce*

(Picea Canadensis)

A native of the black hills of South Da¬
kota and the hardiest form of the white
spruce. A wonderful tree for lawn plant¬
ing or windbreak. Grows a little slower
than the Norway Spruce, but every inch of
it is a dark, rich green. It is easy to grow
and resists drouth -wonderfully. This tree
is especially noted for its compact growth
which makes it desirable for individual
plantings. 30 to 40 feet.

41

Colorado Green Spruce*

(Picea Pungens)

This is the most striking of the orna¬
mental evergreens and is a native of the
Rocky Mountains. A dense growing,
symmetrically, pyramidal tree with stiff
foliage, needles are borne very thickly on
the stems.

Select Colorado Blue Spruce*
(Picea Pungens)

These trees are selected from beds of
the Colorado blue spruce, because of their
light shades which makes them shine out on
a lawn as if frosted with silver. These trees
are very rare as we only get a very few of
this type from beds containing a thousand
plants. This makes them high priced.
When delivered in the spring all look alike,
and it takes a year or two, after transplant¬
ing, for the shiners to get back their silvery
plumage. 30 to 40 feet.

Bull Pine* (Pinus Ponderosa)

This wonderful tree is a native of the
Bad Lands of western North Dakota,
where it was found growing under severe
conditions. This tree grows to saw-log size
under conditions where ash and cottonwood
will not thrive. We feel justified in recom¬
mending this variety of evergreens to the
people living out on the prairies of North
Dakota and western Minnesota. There is
an absolute certainty that it will make a
good windbreak on any land that will pro-
cluce a farm crop south of the Manitoba
line. 30 to 40 feet.

Mugho Pine* (Pinus Mugho)

A low and spreading grower, that is very
useful in lawn planting. Makes a very at¬
tractive hedge, that can be controlled hy

42

pinching back the terminal buds. Valuable
for planting on rocky hill sides or among
stones. Does well on any good garden
soil. 5 to 6 feet.

Norway Spruce (Pices Excelsa)

A very fast growing tree, that is especially
good for windbreaks on a soil that contains a
reasonable amount of moisture. A handsome
tree with its graceful habit and dark green
foliage. 30 to 50 feet.

Red Cedar* (Juniperus Virginiana)

This is a well know tree throughout the
Northwest. It is of conical form and quite
regular, densely branched, the foliage being
thick and of a rich deep green. Bark and
branches are reddish brown. In fall the
branches are thickly hung with pretty blue
berries. This tree will stand clipping and is
especially desirable as an ornamental in the
lawn or used as a hedge. 25 to 30 feet.

Scotch Pine* (Pinus Sylvestris)

A fast growing tree that is resistant to
drouth and especially suitable for wind¬
break planting on the prairie. It is just as
easy to grow as the box elder, with some
care used in planting. A very attractive
tree with its dark green, dull foliage. 40
to 50 feet.

White Spruce* (Picea Alba)

Compact, upright, long lived, retaining
its branches to the ground, drought-resist¬
ing. Color, light green to glaucous blue.
Native and very hardy. 60 to 70 feet.

FOREST TREES

For Windbreaks, Wood Lots and
Ornamental

The prairie ’farmer needs a wood lot* to
supply him with fuel, poles posts and

43

other various uses. Almost every farm has a
piece of land that is not adapted to farm
crops that will produce timber economically.
Such groves should be planted four feet
apart each way to encourage a clean,
straight growth and to shade the ground in
a short time. An acre planted in this way
will require two thousand seven hundred
any twenty trees. Stop and think, have
you a piece of ground on your farm that is
not producing. If you have, why not get
some returns from this land by planting
a wood lot?

American Elm* (Ulmus Americana)

The noblest and most dignified tree in the
world for boulevard planting. Broad arch¬
ing branches with splendid dark green
foliage. One of the most useful timber, as
well as ornamental trees. 60 to 75 feet.

White Ash* (Fraxinus Americana)

Useful for parks, street or lawn plant¬
ings, as well as a great forest tree, grow¬
ing to 80 feet in height with a straight, clean
trunk. For dry soils and on the prairies
plant a good number of ash. It is not only
the hardiest but makes the most useful tim¬
ber of our forest trees.

Box Elder* (Acer Negundo)

A fast growing tree that is especially use¬
ful where protection is needed in a short
time. Adapted to the prairie where it will
be sure to grow and give satisfactory re¬
turns. Useful for mixing in with more valu¬
able trees, as it grows fast while young and
forces the slower growing trees to make a
clean, straight stem. 40 to 50 feet.

Norway Poplar*

(Populus Carolinensis)

This tree is known as the sudden saw
leg, as it is the most rapid grower of them

44

all. It wastes the smallest amount of wood
in branches and thus maintains the size of
the log well up into the tree. Trees planted
14 years are 17 inches in diameter and 55
feet tall. The grain of the wood is straight
and splits easily. Does not shed cotton.

Soft Maple* (Acer Dasycarpum)

A rank growing tree suited to deep, moist
soils. Especially good for fire wood and if
trimmed to avoid crotches that split down
in heavy winds, it becomes one of the most
graceful and beautiful trees of the north.
40 to 50 feet.

THE WILLOWS

Laurel Leaf Willow*

(Salix Pentandra)

On the western prairie this is the most
popular willow, as it will withstand the
dry air conditions. Very fast growing and
will furnish shelter and fuel in a short time.

Foliage of a deep, glossy green. Useful
in landscape work for screening and color
effect. 10 to 20 feet.

Russian Golden Willow*

(Salix Vitellina Aurea)

A very popular willow. Branches pro¬
fusely, making a denser shelter than any
other tree. Especially useful as a snow
break around the outside of the windbreak.
Should be planted about fifty feet from
the main windbreak. A rapid growing tree
with a rich golden bark. Also useful for
screen plantings on estates and parks.

45

SPECIAL ORNAMENTAL
SHADE TREES

European White Birch*

(Betula Alba)

Especially suited to grouping among
other varieties of trees. Very beautiful
with its white bark and finely divided spray
for winter or summer effect. 50 to 60 feet.

Catalpa (Catalpa Speciosa)

A fine ornamental tree for lawn plant¬
ing. Has a white flower in July, followed
by long slender pods. The mammoth, heart
shaped leaves of light green color make it
very conspicious and different. A very fast
growing tree. 50 to 60 feet.

Black Locust* (Robinia Psaudacacia)

A hardy, thrifty growing tree, that will
thrive in any location. Foliage is light and
cut leaf. Tree is fragrant with panicles of
white flowers and highly ornamental. Valu¬
able for planting where quick results are
desired. 40 to 60 feet.

Mountain Ash* (Sorbus Aucuparia)

Bears large clusters of fragrant flowers,
that are followed by. handsome red berries
that hang on the tree all winter. A small
sized, shade tree, that is one of the cleanest,
and can be planted on most any small
sized lot. It is desirable to plant a shrub
on the south side of this tree to prevent the
trunk from becoming injured by sunscald.

Linden* (Tilia Americana)

One of the most reliable, hardy and
drouth resisting of shade trees. Has frag¬
rant blossoms in July. Foliage dense with
large heart-shaped leaves. Useful for lawn
and street planting. 40 to 60 feet.

46

Hard Maple* (Acer Saccharum)

The hard or sugar maple is one of the
most symmetrical and well rounded trees
native of America. A straight grower,
vigorous, stately, inclined to form a spread¬
ing head when given plenty of room. A
real tree for street planting, home grounds
or parks. Foliage, dark green, changing to
orange and red tints in the fall. 40 to 60
feet.

Bolle’s Poplar*

(Populus Alba Bolleana)

This splendid, upright growing, silver
leaf poplar resembles the Lombardy in
growth, but is more desirable as it is longer
lived. A tree of lofty habits, suitable for
tall screening and architectual emphasis.

WEEPING TREES
Niobe Weeping Willow*

(Salix Niobe)

A golden barked willow of decided weep¬
ing habit, branches weeping from its own
stem from base of tree to the top. Professor
Hanson, of the South Dakota Experimental
Station, introduced this tree from Russia.

Cut Leaf Weeping Birch*

(Betula Laciniata Pendula Gracilis)

One of the most beautiful and desirable
trees for the lawn, with delicate cut foliage.
Bark is silvery white, forming a contrast
with the foliage. 30 to 50 feet.

Camperdown Elm*

(Ulmus Glabra Camperdownii)

A remarkable, picturesque, wreeping tree,
that extends its branches horizontally until

47

it forms a complete arbor. It does not grow
over 15 feet high, while the branching head
covers 18 feet or more.

NUT TREES

Trees that are valuable as timber and at
the same time produce nuts which can be
sold at a profit. Many farms contain land
that would be far better planted to nut
trees, than anything else, and would pay
better than farm crops.

Horse Chestnut (Aesculus Glabra)

A strong and rapid growing tree, that is
especially suitable for lawn planting. White
fragrant flowers in May. 15 to 30 feet.

Butternut* (Juglans Cinerea)

This lofty, spreading tree is valuable for
its tropical appearance as a lawn tree, beau¬
tiful wood, and its nuts, which are large, oily
and nutritious. 70 to 90 feet.

Black Walnut* (Juglans Niagra)

Lofty height and shapely crown, with
beautiful compound foliage consisting of
thirteen to seventeen leaflets. Wood is very
rare and valuable. Bears large nuts that
sell good on the market. 80 to 100 feet.

LANDSCAPE SERVICE
DEPARTMENT

The HOWARD LAKE & VICTOR
NURSERIES are in a position to give
intelligent advice to all who are interested in
ornamental plantings.

We claim to be one of the few nurseries in
this section of the country that can give you
the proper service in landscaping your home.

We plan and design your grounds, fur¬
nish the plant material, grown in our nur-

48

series, and superintend the planting at an
economical figure.

We will assure the complete contract,
which is an item of vital importance to the
planter interested in securing a satisfactory
job. Our object is to give the people of
the Northwest the utmost service in making
improvements along landscape lines in the
most artistic, practical and economical way.

In order to secure the most attractive re¬
sults in landscaping, the first thing to con¬
sider is a carefully prepared plan. This
results in the study of the grounds, con¬
sidering the soil qualities, existing trees,
type of house, surrounding properties,
w^alks, drives, slopes, and most important
of all, the owners personal wishes and ideas.

We are in a position to give you profes¬
sional, landscape architectual advice and
make plans for any character of ground
improvements.

OUR TERMS

In case you take the proper measure¬
ments of your grounds and send them in
to our office, we will make out a complete
plan and send it to you free of charge with
the understanding that you use stock from
the Howard Hake & Victor Nurseries in
planting your grounds. Write for one of
our landscape charts, which will give you
the information which we require in the
form of measurements, etc., in drawing up
a satisfactory plan of your grounds.

In case it is necessary for our Land¬
scape Service Man to make a special visit to
the clinent, we make a nominal charge, 10
per cent of the amount of the order for
the plans and services which we give. For
example, when the material for planting the
grounds amounts to $150.00 the plans and
personal service would come to $15.00. For

49

smaller grounds very satisfactory plans can
be made through correspondence, but on
larger places as school grounds, parks, large
private residences, etc., we recommend a
personal visit from our Landscape Service
Man.

AN INVITATION

We extend a personal invitation to all
our friends and patrons to visit our nur¬
series and make their own selections of
plants and trees, which will be tagged, care¬
fully dug, and shipped to }^ou at the proper
time for planting.

EXPLANATION

Attractive home grounds are not attained
by the indiscriminate planting of trees,
shrubs and flowers about the yard. No
matter, how beautiful each specimen may
be, in order to secure a harmonizing effect
it is necessary to properly place the proper
plants according to pre-arranged plan, which
takes into consideration the practical and
esthetic requirements of each place.

HARDY ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS
Almond (Amygdalus

Early flowering shrubs, gaily in full
bloom before the leaves appear, with beau¬
tiful double flowers of rose or white, snug¬
gling tight to the twigs. Double white and
double pink. 4 to 5 feet.

Barberry, Japanese*
(Berberries Thunbergii)

A Japanese shrub, that does not carry the
rust and is especially useful for low hedging
and group plantings on the lawn. A very
attractive, dwarf growing shrub with thorny
twigs. Dark green, fine foliage with red
berries that hang on all winter. 2 to 3 feet.

50

Buckthorn* (Rhamnus Catharticus)

The most commonly used hedge plant,
that will thrive well in a poor soil and under
exposed conditions. Foliage, the darkest
green, very dense and branches somewhat
thorny. Grows to 15 feet in heighth, but
can be kept trimmed to any height and
makes a dense hedge.

Caragana* (Siberian Pea Tree)

A very hardy shrub that will do especially
well on a light sandy soil. Has a fine
foliage of a light green color. Yellow, pea¬
like blossoms are borne early in the season.
Make a very attractive hedge, that can be
trimmed to any height. 6 to 10 feet.

Coral Berry

(Symphoricarpus Vulgaris)

A very attractive, dwarf growing shrub
that has a luxuriant foliage. Bright red
berries are held well into the winter. 3 to
5 feet.

Cranberry High Bush*
(Viburnum Opulis)

Very similar to the snowball in appear¬
ance. Carries large bunches of crimson
berries, which enliven the late summer and
persist on bare branches into the winter.
Useful for screening and in contrast with
other shrubs planted in groups. 8 to 10
feet.

Crab (Bechtel’s Double Flowering)

Blossoms earlv before the leaves appear.
Flowers are double, resembling little roses.
A very interesting and beautiful tree. 12 to
15 feet.

Cotoneaster* (Acutifolia)

A comparative!}" new shrub that is espe¬
cially useful for low hedging or as a speci-

51

men shrub. Has dark green leaves with a
glossy appearance.

Currant* — Yellow Flowering
(Ribes Aurea)

This is the old fashioned, fragrant cur¬
rant that blooms early in the season and is
useful in landscape work. 5 to 8 feet.

Currant* — Alpine (Ribes Alpina)

Useful for low hedges and, border plant¬
ings. Has dense, upright racemes of golden
flowers in May. Fruit, deep scarlet. 2 to
4 feet.

Dogwood* — Red Twigged
(Cornus Stolonifera)

The bark is a dark, rich red and con¬
trasts beautifully with the darker tone of
other trees and shrubs. Flowers in dense
cymes, followed by white berries. Makes
a good hedge or screen, 6 to 8 feet.

Dogwood*— Varigated
(Cornus Sanguinea)

One of the most desirable shrubs with
varigated foliage. Leaves are broadly
margined with white and some are almost
entirely white. Bark is bright red in win¬
ter, 4 to 5 feet.

Elder* — Cut Leaf
(Sambucus Nigra Lanciniata)

Each leaf is cut and divided so as to give
the appearance of a fern. Of a drooping
habit and one of the handsomest shrubs in
cultivation. 6 to 8 feet.

Elder — Golden (Sambucus Aurea)

Bright, golden, yellow leaves, the color
being distinct and permanent all summer.

52

Of vigorous spreading habit. One of the
best golden foliaged shrubs. 5 to 7 feet.

Hedge-wood"" (Siberian)

A new introduction of Professor Han¬
son of South Dakota. This is one of the
best hardy hedges that will stand extreme
clipping. Suitable for a very low hedge
of attractive appearance. Starts growing
very early in the spring and the foliage
hangs on late in the fall.

Honeysuckle* — Tartarian
(Lonicera Tartarica)

Has very fragrant blossoms in early
June. Desirable for use in shrubbery
border or screen, as well as specimen shrub.
Red, white and pink varieties. 6 to 8 feet.

Honeysuckle* — Morrows Bush
(Lonicera Morrowii)

A Japanese variety, grows more spread¬
ing that the other honeysuckles. The pure
white flowers change to yellow and are fol¬
lowed by bright red berries in August that
hang on until winter. 4 to 6 feet.

Hydrangea Paniculata Grandiflora

The showiest of all autumn flowering
shrubs. Bearing immense heads of creamy
white flowers which turn a rich pink at the
approach of cold weather. Flowers may be
picked and kept as a winter bouquet, if left
on the shrub they hang on most all winter.
4 to 6 feet.

Hdrangea Aborescens (Hills of Snow)

The latest addition the summer flowering
shrubs, coming into bloom after all the
earlier ones have passed away and having
the appearance of “Hills of Snow” in the
middle of the summer. Does well in the
shade. 3 to 5 feet.

53

June Berry*

(Amelanchier Botryapium)

Bears white flowers in late April, com¬
pletely covering the shrub before most of
the shrubs or trees have started growing.
The dark red berries, which are ripe in mid¬
summer, are very ornamental and are useful
for pies or sauces. 4 to 5 feet.

Lilic* — Purple (Syringea Vulgaris)

This is the oldest and best known type of
lilac. From it have sprung most of the
newer varieties. Excellent for hedges,
screens and group planting. Should have
plenty of sunlight to bloom freely. 10 to
12 feet.

Lilac* — White (Syringea Alba)

Same growing habits and can be used for
same purposes as above.

Lilac*— Persian (Syringea Persica)

A more graceful form of lilac with finer
and more pointed leaves. Branches, slender
and flowers bright purple. 8 to 10 feet.

Lilac Madam Lemoine*

A French grafted lilac that will start
blooming at once and bear long heads of
gorgeous, pure white flowers. 8 to 10 feet.

Matrimony Vine (Lycium)

This shrub has a special purpose in land¬
scape plantings. It has long trailing
branches, which grow from 6 to 10 feet,
and makes a very effective plant to place
at the top of a terrace, so that the branches
can overhang a wall. It has purple flowers
which are followed by attractive red ber¬
ries.

54

Privet* (Polish)

At last we have a privet, that is entirely
hardy and will withstand the severe cli¬
mate of the Northwest. This is a new in¬
troduction from Poland and has proven
itself to be one of the most attractive hedge
plants for the Northwest. We have had
this plant growing in our nurseries for a
number of years and think more of it every
year. Foliage is of light green. Branches
close to the ground and makes a very dense,
compact and even growing hedge. It has
everything a good hedge plant should have.
5 to 8 feet.

Plum — Purple Leaf

A large shrub or small tree with shining,
purple leaves, that may be used to color the
shrubbery plantings. 10 to 12 feet.

Plum — Double Flowering
(Prunus Triloba)

Bears a profusion of delicate, pink, rose¬
like blossoms, appearing just before the
leaves unfold. 8 to 10 feet.

Russian Olive*

(Elaegnus Augustifolia)

Leaves of a light slivery color, shaped
like a willow. Has a small, very fragrant,
yellow flower. Is suitable for hedges,
screens, as well as individual specimens.
Gives a very good foliage in contrast with
other trees and shrubs. 12 to 18 feet.

Snowberry* — White
(Symphoricarpus Racemosus)

A very graceful drooping shrub that can
be used in shady places in front of higher
shrubs. Has large, white, wax-like berries
that hang on most of the winter. 3 to 5
feet.

55

Snowball* (Viburnum Opulis Sterilis)

An old, well known favorite, that is sus¬
ceptible to plant lice, which may be con¬
trolled by covering the plant, including the
underside of the leaves, with soapy water
or by using a nicotine spray. 6 to 8 feet.

Spirea Anthony Waterer

A dwarf growing variety that blooms
most all summer. Flowers are dark red to
pink and very showy. Can be used in front
of higher shrubs or as a low shrubbery
border. 2 to 3 feet.

Spirea Arguta

Blooms two weeks earlier than the bridal
wreath. When in bloom each branch is
completely covered with a wealth of minute,
pure white flowers. 3 to 5 feet.

Spirea* — Golden (S. Aurea)

Foliage of a bright, golden color and
finely shaped. This is one of the finest
golden leaved shrubs useful for contrasts
with other shrubs. Flowers white, resem¬
bling small roses. 6 to 8 feet.

Spirea* — Ash Leaved (S. Sorbifolia)

A vigorous growing shrub with dull green
foliage, resembling that of the mountain
ash. White flowers, borne in elegant long
spikes. 6 to 7 feet.

Spirea Billardii*

A strong grower with dull green foliage
and dense spikes of bright pink flowers.
Blooms in July and August. 4 to5 feet.

Spirea Callosa Alba

Much like the Anthony Waterer, except
that it bears white flowers throughout the
summer. Dwarf growing, 2 feet.

56

Spirea Froebeli

Dwarf growing, similar to Anthony Wat-
erer with broader leaves. Bright, crimson
flowers in dense corymbs during July and
August. 2 feet.

Spirea Thunbergii

One of the finest spring blooming, small
shrubs. Flowers are white, borne along the
entire length of the branches, bending them
down in graceful curves. Foliage, fine and
willow-like, that turns orange scarlet in
autumn. 3 to 4 feet.

Spirea Van Houttei*

(Bridal Wreath)

A most graceful and attractive bush the
year around and one that will stand the
most severe conditions. This is a well
known plant and is one of the best for
northern planters. White wreaths of bloom
in June. Can be used for individual speci¬
mens, grouping foundation planting, and
hedging. 4 to 6 feet.

Syringea — Golden
(Philadelphus Aureus)

A compact shrub with bright yellowr
foliage, which retains its color throughout
the season. Very effective in grouoing with
the darker foliaged shrubs. 3 to 5 feet.

Syringea — Mock Orange*
(Philadelphus Coronarius)

The old and well known Mock Orange.
A graceful, upright bush, with long
branches, covered with dark green foliage.
In June completely covered with showy,
pure white flowers of a delightful fragrance.
Used for screening, specimen shrubs, or in
the shrubbery border. 8 to 10 feet.

57

Springea — Lemoine
(Philadeiphus Lemoineii)

Much the same as the other syringeas,
except that its branches, foliage and blos¬
soms are smaller. Graceful, drooping habit,
and one of our very best shrubs. 4 to 5
feet.

Weigelia Rosea

An elegant shrub with fine, rose colored
flowers. Erect in habit and with attractive
foliage. Best known and most popular
weigelia. 4 to 5 feet. This shrub should be
planted in sheltered locations to do its best
as it is quite tender.

Shepherdia Argentea* (Buffalo Berry)

A strong, sturdy, shrub, native of the Da¬
kotas and Manitoba. Stout, thick branches
with spurs and thickly covered light green
foliage. A good vigorous shrub for hedg¬
ing, where close clipping is not required
and valuable on poor soils. 6 to 8 feet.

CLIMBING VINES
Engelmann Creeper*
(Ampelopsis Engelmanii)

A vine that clings to stucco, brick or
stone without any assistance. The most
hardy and desirable of any for covering
walls, porches, screens, or any thing that
it is desirable to have a vine climb on.
Leaves turn a crimson color in the autumn.
Grows very fast, the vines shooting up for
20 feet in one growing season.

Honeysuckle Scarlet Trumpet*
(Lonicera)

The old garden favorite that blooms all
summer, producing the most brilliant,

5S

orange scarlet flowers. Foliage a rich,
glcssy green. Useful for screen on lat¬
tice work about the porch or in the garden.
This beautiful flowering vine should be
found at every home.

Honeysuckle'"*' — Hall's Japan
(Lonicera Halleana)

Flowers white with intermingling of yel¬
low. Extremely fragrant and most satis¬
factory. Will do well in partial shade and
is used extensively as a ground cover.

Bitter Sweet* (Alastrus)

A climber of distinctive growing habit for
it fairly clutches its su^nort in spiral turns
as it grows upward. Very good for use on
pergolas, archways, bird houses supporters,
etc. Its showy orange red berries are very
effective in the fall and winter landscape,
and may be used as house decorations in
winter.

American Ivy*
(Ampelopsis Quinquefolia)

This vine is commonly called wood bine
and is a native of the north woods. It has
deeply cut leaves which turn a beautiful
crimson in the fall, fine for covering fences,
walls, trees and slopes.

Clematis Jackamanii

Bears large, brilliant, purple flowers. Re¬
quires winter protection and likes a shady
location.

Clematis Paniculata

This white flowering clematis is one of
the most popular and is one of the most
hardy of the clematis. Blooms late in the
season, and requires winter protection.

59

Clematis Henryi

Light red flowers of large size. Requires
winter protection.

ROSES

Our roses are field grown, large stock
and will bloom the first ^ear after plant¬
ing. Roses require a fertile black loam soil
and plenty of sunshine and moisture. Cul¬
tivate continuously and fertilize every year.
The best time to plant is the early spring
and the plants should be cut down to within
six: inches of the ground as soon as they are
planted. Plant a few inches deeper than
they were growing in the nursery. The
tender varieties require winter protection
and the best method is to tie up the vines
together and wrap with burlap or some
cloth, then lay them down and cover with a
foot of dry straw. This method will insure
your plants coming through the winter in
good shape. Hold the straw in place with
boards or a wire netting. In the spring
uncover when the trees start growing and
cut the tips back to the new fresh wood.
Diseases and insects are best controlled by
keeping the bush in a good, thrifty, grow¬
ing condition. The red spider can be con¬
trolled by spraying with cold water and
keeping the bushes quite damp. Mildew
car. be controlled by dusting the bushes with
sulphur.

Hardy Rugosa Roses*

These new hybrid Rugosa roses can be
grown all over Minnesota and the Dakotas
without winter protection. This beautiful
rose will take the place of many of the less
hardy varieties as the varieties that we are
offering are all of the large, double kinds.
Should be used in groups in the corners of
the lawn, etc. Also makes a very attractive,

60

informal hedge that will give the lover of
roses an abundance of bloom all summer.

Double Red Rugosa — A deep red, very
large and fragrant. Foliage of a dark green.

Double White Rugosa — The purest, paper
white of large size and very heavy and frag¬
rant. Foliage of a rich green. Makes a
perfect low hedge, full of bloom all sum¬
mer.

Double Pink Rugosa — A rosy pink color,
extremely fragrant, good size, perfectly
double; foliage, dark, rich green.

TENDER VARIETIES

Nearly all of the old line roses require
winter protection. Method of covering is
given above. While these roses are classed
as tender they are the hardiest and most
satisfactory except the new Rugosa roses.

Moss Roses

We handle varieties of the red, white and
pink moss roses. The stems are heavy and
hold the blossoms quite upright. Flowers
very fragrant and coated with a mossy
fringe. A very beautiful rose.

Madam Plantier

One of the hardiest June roses. An en¬
ormous bloomer and covered with snow
white flowers every season without much
attention.

Persian Yellow

Bright yellow, small and double. The
hardiest and best yellow rose. Does not re¬
quire winter protection when planted in
sheltered places.

Captain Hayward

One of the finest red roses, large blos¬
soms, free bloomer, deliciously fragrant.

61

Paul Neyron

Peep rose color, good, tough foliage,
wood rather smooth. A free bloomer, very
desirable as a garden rose.

General Jacqueminot

A strong, vigorous grower and quite
hardy. Brilliant, crimson flowers.

Crimson Rambler (Climbing Roses)

Flowers are a bright, cheerful shade of
crimson, and the great size of the clusters
makes it especially attractive. Flowers
double. A rapid grower and one of the best
climbing roses.

Excelsa* (Climbing Rose)

A recent addition to the climbing roses
and one that is extremely hardy. A gor¬
geous, intense crimson, double flower.
Foliage very thrifty and beautiful.

Dorothy Perkins (Climbing Rose)

A pink climbing rose that is a thirfty
grower and quite hardy.

Baby Rambler Roses

A wonderful little rose, that grows in a
small, compact bush and is covered with
bloom all summer. Very desirable for pot
planting in the house. Strictly a bedding
plant and requires plenty of winter protec¬
tion.

Crimson Baby Rambler — This is the
hardiest and best of the ramblers. Covered
with large trusses of bright, crimson bloom.

White Baby Rambler — Small, white clus¬
ters, fragrant.

Pink Baby Rambler — Small, pink clusters,
fragrant.

Yellow Baby Rambler— Conspicious for
its bright yellow bloom.

62

TULIPS*

(For Fall Planting)

Plant in a well prepared bed in the fall.
Bulbs should be about six inches apart and
the top of the bulb three inches below the
surface of the ground. Tulips may be left
in the ground from year to year and should
be covered with a mulch of manure in the
fall. After about three years it is advisable
to take them up and replant in another loca¬
tion. Should be planted in individual beds
or in front of shrubbery. The first to bloom
in the spring and a bed of assorted colors
will at once become the admiration and
envy of the neighborhood. We sell tulips
in assorted lots. These are of the best
varieties and grow from 11 to 14 inches
high. Double and single.

BULBS AND HARDY PEREN¬
NIAL PLANTS

Achillea the Pearl*

One of the hardiest and best border
plants for exposed locations. White flowers
all summer that may be used for cutting.
Low growing, about 12 to 18 inches.

Aquilega* (Columbine)

A fine plant for the boarder or rockery
in well drained soils. Large, white flowers
with deep blue petals and four long recurved
spurs. Foliage very attractive and dense.
12 to 18 inches high.

Bellflower* (Canterbury Bell)

An ornamental garden flower of easy cul¬
ture. Flowers vary in color between, blue,
red, purple and white. Blooms July and
August. Two feet.

G

Bleeding Heart* (Dielytra Dicentra)

Long racemes of showy, heart shaped, red
and white flowers. Will do well in both
sandjr and sunny places. Three feet.

Chinese Bellflower* (Platycodon)

Blooms from July to September. Forms
a dense, branched bush with attractive
foliage. Flowers conspicious, bell shaped,
varying in color from pure white to deepest
blue. Two feet.

Day Lily* (Hemerocallis)

These are excellent plants with grass like
foliage and dark, orange colored flowers,
borne on long stems. Very hardy, thriving
on any good soil and especially adapted to
a moist, shady place.

DAHLIAS

Another well known autumn flowering
plant. Grows from two to five feet high.
Flowers are of most perfect form and vary
in color from the most perfect white to the
darkest red. The dahlia is not as particular
as most other plants and will do very well
on a poor soil, where it has plenty of sun
light. Plant in the spring in beds or among
the shrubbeo^. Take the tubers up in the
fall, after the first heavy frosts, and store
in the cellar in dry sand or sawdust.

Double Red — Large, heavy, useful for a
background plant where dark colors can be
used. We have the cactus dahlia of this
color.

Double White — Large, compact flowers of
a pure, paper white. Useful for a late fall
contrast in color. Useful in the foreground,
where lighter colors should be used.

Double Yellow — A very large and con¬
spicious flower, that is produced in abund¬
ance. A color that gives an interesting fea¬
ture to most any planting.

G4

Hollyhock* — Double (Athea)

Indispensable plant in the garden and
border, possessing a character peculiar to
themselves, which renders them especially
valuable to break up any set effect in the
lawn planting. Colors range from a dark
red to a perfect white.

Gaillardia*

Conspicious for its profusion and dura¬
tion of bloom. The dark, orange colored
flowers give a striking and gorgeous effect
in the border and are useful for cut flowers.
12 to 18 inches.

Golden Glow*

One of the most attractive, fall blooming
perennials for the mixed boarder or mass¬
ing. Targe, double, dahlia shaped, yellow
flowers. Four feet.

GLADIOLI

Grow some gladioli for cut flowers.
Blooms for two or three weeks, the buds
unfolding clear to the tips of the plant. Pull
off the lowest blossoms as they wilt. Plant
bulbs in spring and store in cellar over win¬
ter the same as dahlias. Assorted colors
from a dark red to a pure, paper white.

Iris* (Rainbow Flower)

No flower in the perennial boarder sur¬
passes the iris in delicacy of texture and
color or is more showy and pleasing in
general appearance. They thrive in most
any soil and are easy to cultivate. Do well
in the shade.

Larkspur (Delphinium)

Well known and valuable perennial plant
with ornamental foliage. Free flowering
and of easy culture. By preventing the

G5

flowers to seed, the plants will bloom con¬
tinually until hard frosts.

Lily* (Double Tiger)

Something new to take the place of the
old fashioned, single tiger lily. Grows to
four or five feet high and produces a large
number of bright orange flowers.

Lily of the Valley*

A well known, low growing perennial,
that does especially well in the shade. Small
flowers of a pure white on spikes, with a
charming fragrance.

Plantain Lily* (Funkia)

Flowers in June and July of a pale blue.
Glossy, heavy, compact foliage. Flowers
borne on tall showy spikes. Does well in
the shade and makes a fine border for
shrubs. One foot.

Peony* (Peonia)

Peonies succeed admirably in any loamy
soil and will do well in partly shaded places.
Useful for bordering the walks and drives,
as well as for the flower beds. Colors
range from a pure white to a dark purple.
Some are fragrant. We have selected a few
of the best varieties which we are offering:

Double White — Large, heavy, double
bloom.

Double Pink— Large double, early
blooming.

Festiva Maxima — Large, very double,
pure white, center petals fringed with red.
Long stems, strong grower.

Phlox* (Hardy)

A well known perennial that fits in most
any border planting. Two to three feet.
Colors of red, white, pink and white with a
pink center.

Shasta Daisy* (Chrysanthemum)

Originated by Mr. Luther Burbank of
California. Flowers are large, white, with
golden center. Have good stems for cut¬
ting. Three to four feet. Bloom late in
the fall.

Yucca* (Filamentosa)

Has stiff, broad, sword like foliage, sur¬
mounted by tall handsome spikes of large
fragrant, creamy white flowers. Valuable
in producing sub-tropical effects. Foliage
holds its green color all winter. Three to
four feet.

BEDDING PLANTS

Cannas — Bronze and green leaf. Very
good for center piece of flower bed. Four
to five feet.

•Geraniums — For a border to a flower
bed. Bloom all summer.

Coleus — Mixed foliage, all colors, for a
low border plant around outside of flower
bed.

Salvia — Border plant very attractive
bloom of a light red.

— Vinca Vines — For window boxes around
edge of box. Will drape down and give a
very attractive appearance.

DISTANCES APART TO PLANT

Trees

Feet or plants
apart per acre

Apples and crabs . 20x30 . 73

Plums and cherries . 16x20 136

Currants and gooseberries.. 4x 6 1,815

Raspberries, red suckering

varieties . . 3x 6 2,420

Raspberries, black and

purple . 4x 6 1,815

Blackberries . 4x 6 1,815

67

Strawberries . lx 4 10,890

Rhubarb . 3x 6 2,240

Asparagus . lx 2 21,780

There are 43,560 square feet to the acre.
Divide this amount by the number of square
feet required by each plant. For example
— if you were planting grapes eight feet

apart each way — eight times eight equals
64 square feet. 43,560 divided by 64 equals
681, the number of plants required for one
acre.

OUR SALES FORCE ARE

TRAINED TO GIVE YOU
SERVICE

When you meet a representative of the
HOWARD LAKE & VICTOR NUR¬
SERIES, you can be sure he knows his
business. He has studied the material *he
is selling and knows what varieties are
best to plant and where to plant them. He
understands the latest methods of pruning,
spraying, planting, and after care of trees
and plants, which he is instructed to pass
on to his clients. He has received training
in landscaping and can give his clients
service along this line. Our representa¬
tives have received their training through
the Howard Lake & Victor Nurseries and
the University of Minnesota. Twenty of
our salesmen attended the short course
given by the University of Minnesota in
February, 1925. This shourt course was
given for nursery salesmen. Many of our
representatives have spent a number of
years working in the nursery, while others
have received their experiences and educa¬
tion along horticultural lines by practical
experience and reading literature sent
them from our office. Representatives of
the Howard Lake & Victor Nurseries are
kept posted on the new varieties and up-

68

to-date culture methods, as well as land¬
scape improvements. They are instructed
not to sell varieties unless they have been
proven out to be hardy and have qualities,
which would make them valuable to the
planter. By leaving your order with one
of our representatives you will be sure to
receive a quality of stock that is unex¬
celled and a service which will be of great
value to you in securing the maximum re¬
sults from the stock planted.

CERTIFICATE OF INSPECTION
ACCOMPANIES EVERY
ORDER

69

HELPFUL INFORMATION ABOUT SHRUBS

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